The Call to Prayer in Essaouira

Orson Welles made Essaouira world famous when he filmed Othello in this bleached white fortress that’s stood guard for centuries against possible invaders from the Atlantic. The entire town is punctuated by weathered wooden cobalt blue doors. It’s gorgeous. Mustafa’s herd of camels is nine strong, all looked well-tended, and I rode on Lawrence of […]

Krakow

Kraków is tricky, especially shopping at the flea market where the treasures of those slaughtered are now available for a bargain. The Nazis didn’t obliterate this pristine Medieval town because they chose it as the General Government, an Eastern outpost of the Third Reich. And they built their largest and most efficient extermination camps on […]

Pattaya

Hanging with the girls today at an all female elephant sanctuary, a place that rescues these big lugs from circuses or cruel ownership they literally breaks their backs. Two of them were pregnant, a two-year gestation, one a few months from giving birth. I shared the day with a great British couple, Kirsten and Chris, […]

Trained Monkey

The accordion music floated in the air drawing me closer to see the little dog on the player’s shoulder. An elderly man walked by and put a coin in the cup dangling from the pup’s mouth. I started to video them. I dug into my pocket and gave a couple of euros, too. How could […]

Lisbon

The accordion music floated in the air drawing me closer to see the little dog on the player’s shoulder. An elderly man walked by and put a coin in the cup dangling from the pup’s mouth. I started to video them. I dug into my pocket and gave a couple of euros, too. How could […]

The DMZ and How Trump Ruined It for Me

This is the most difficult city I’ve ever visited, a place that refuses to bend the knee to the Roman alphabet and a frown is the state expression. The Joint Security Area portion of the DMZ tour was canceled with no notice, a whim of the North or the South. Who knows? No explanation given. […]